‘Tis the season to be jolly and time to pull out Christmas lights, ornaments, garland, mistletoe, and your inflatable yard Santa. Since the arrival of the holidays, many people are searching for interior decorating ideas that will bring cheer to their home. There are several holiday decorating suggestions available but why not celebrate this season with a new interior paint job?
A lot of people strive to give their homes that special holiday feeling and adding a little color to your walls is a perfect way of doing so. A new interior paint job can refresh and rejuvenate a home but if you add colors that are festive and bright, it can help lift spirits of those who enter your home.
Choosing Durable, Festive Colors
When a room that needs to repainted and will eventually be full of guests, higher level sheen paints are ideal. These paints are easier to keep clean and have a higher resistance to stains. Variations of green and red are the obvious go-to choices for walls. These colors work beautifully with interior walls year-round.
Green – Green is associated with vitality and wealth. This color is usually intended to foster productivity and creativity. Studies have proven green to be one the most relaxing and calming colors. It for sure will help with the hectic holidays. Green is ideal to be used in both kitchens and dining rooms.
Red– There is a wide variety of red hues to choose from. Red is a warm color that will give your home a cozy setting. Oddly, it can also act as an appetite enhancer, which makes it a great choice for dining rooms, where the holiday festivities often take place.
These aren’t your only hue options for pre-holiday painting. Interior paints come in various colors and sheens. Be sure to use a color that you will be satisfied with once it’s time to put the decorations back in storage.
If you feel that you are short on time to have an entire room repainted, we recommended adding one or two holiday color accent walls. Accent walls can add a chic feel and the appearance of the entire room will be completely different. If you later fall in love with the choice of color, other walls can be painted later.
The holidays aren’t only about celebrations but also the décor. With the right interior paint job, your holiday décor will pop and will be rewarding. Not only will the Christmas lights outside impress your guests, but the new interior look will make your gathering even more special. Gift a loved one with a home renovation that will not only renew and rejuvenate a home but it will also create a cheerful, positive energy that radiates through your home.
If you need help sprucing up your interior paint for the holidays, give the professional painters at Imhoff Painting in Denver, CO a call @ (303) 650-0933.
Here’s a famous line often heard on the site of a wood refinishing or cabinetry project: “Hey, what could go wrong?” Short answer: lots, long answer: more than you can imagine! We’ve been refinishing wood and cabinetry for 20 years, and in that time, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve said to myself, or the crew: “Hey, add this to the list of 101 ways to screw up a wood project.”
Because it’s true – there are countless ways to go sideways while finishing or restoring wood surfaces – if you’ve discovered a handful, you’ve only just begun.
There is a magic elixir if you’re willing to swallow it; by fixing it you learn how to NOT do it. It’s the only way; you’ve just learned another way that it won’t work, or another thing to not do, and you can set about correcting it…whatever it may be. The cover charge for getting into this club is the willingness to learn and correct mistakes. It’s not like making a bad paint color choice, there’s much more of a commitment involved. There’s a lot of stuff that I’ve learned from because they didn’t go so well and today I’m sharing the top 5 basic tips to help you avoid trouble on a wood finishing project:
Sample Your Stain Color
It’s highly advised to sample your stain color and get an approval of the stained sample from your spouse, a client, designer, GC, or whoever will be helping to complete the painting project. It just needs to get done!
Even if you (or your client) know 100% for sure, absolutely without a single question; It’s still a good idea to test the stain somewhere, like a piece of scrap or the backside of something. It helps you to be sure that you avoid problems such as:
Crossing a Ben Moore® color over to a Sherwin Williams® stain. Many companies have their own proprietary version of the same color. For example: “Fruitwood” is a color found in many different paint lines and generally the same color with very little differences.
You’re sampling stain on a piece of wood that is equal in every way to your showcase – preferably from the same lot, or equal in species, age, previous coating, surface prep, etc.
Yes, this includes sanding. There is absolutely no way around it. Wood surfaces should be sanded to at least 180 grit before stain, 220 is better. If you skip sanding, or you’re inconsistent, you’ll have blotchiness after using the stain.
If you want to remove the blotchiness, you will need to sand again (after stain). Although you will probably have to sand a rough spot you missed, try to stain the spot, and then it looks terrible because you’re staining is beginning to overlap causing more intense colors in certain areas. You can avoid all this hassle by sanding evenly and thoroughly the first time.
Using a vacuum is okay but it isn’t the best way to get the sanding dust of the grain. The best method of cleaning is to use compressed air.
To condition, or not to condition? That ‘tis the question. Wood conditioner helps stain set evenly, preventing blotchiness and ugly irregularities in the stain color.
The general rule is soft species equals conditioning, hard species equals no conditioning. This isn’t always true. It’s a good idea to practice on a piece of scrap, or the backside of something, before going on the main stage.
Let the stain dry, this means more than dry to the touch. It means overnight, usually. Check the instructions on the can and make sure you’re vented properly. If you don’t let it dry and cure thoroughly, you’ll risk having to strip your clear coat because it isn’t drying, or it dries cloudy, or it’s alligatoring. If the product is designed to be ready for topcoat in 4-6 hours, great! Just follow the guidelines and ask questions when you’re not sure.
Putty and Fillers
In almost any wood project, there are imperfections in the completed work that need to be addressed somewhere in the finishing process. These range from nail/staple holes to little dings, gaps between pieces resulting from wood warp or just ill-fit, reveals, rough spots.
Keep in mind when filling nails holes: not all putties are compatible with all stains and finishes. Pay close attention to this; it can cause problems to appear even after your top coat or clear coats are applied.
Before Sealing and Topcoats
If you don’t like what you’re seeing, STOP! Applying sealer or topcoats will not change or alter some irregularity that you are noticing. Furthermore, applying sealer or topcoat over something you don’t like will not only change it but then more sanding and stripping will need to be done to remove with every coat that was applied.This rule is very simple: as soon as you see something you don’t like, stop and consult, address the issue and start again.
That was my top 5 tips that will save you time, money, and a headache. If you make a mistake, don’t fret. Almost any mistake can be corrected. You just need a bit of patience and a positive attitude!
Painting interior trim is no different than painting any other wood or millwork surface in your house. You need to start by sanding the trim until it is smooth (if your trim is MDF, it will already be smooth, but it’s still a good idea to rough it up a little to provide profile for the primer to adhere), vacuum thoroughly with a brush extension, then apply a good quality, leveling primer.
Once the primer has dried overnight, it should be sanded again – this will remove grain fibers that were raised by the primer. Note: oil primer (alkyd) works best for 3 reasons: 1) it dries hard so it sands easy – no rubbery latex to gum up sandpaper; 2) it blocks tannin stains from leeching into your finish coats; 3) it levels nicely. After thorough sanding, clean it by vacuuming, then wipe it down with a lint-free cloth moistened with clean water or clean solvent.
Once you are done with preparing the primed surface, you can apply the first coat of paint. If you need or wish to apply a second coat, you should allow the first coat to dry properly (according to manufacturer’s recommendations) then check it by rubbing over the surfaces gently with clean hands, if the surface feels gritty or rough in places, then sand those areas again but with a finer grit sandpaper than what was used in your pre-prime sanding, then vacuum and wipe clean again with a clean lint free towel – to remove dust, finally apply the second coat of paint.
Note: if you’re installing a paint that dramatically different in color, you may need a third coat – do not try to achieve coverage by applying a heavy coat – this will cause problems like sagging, curtains, alligatoring, and an unsightly finish.
Choosing the Right Paint and Paint Brush for Trim:
Historically, alkyd based (oil, or solvent soluble) paints were mainly used in trim painting because of their high quality finish, leveling, adhesion, and for their ability to stand up against abuse – plus, that all that was on the menu. Later, with the introduction of latex and acrylic based (water-soluble) paints consumers now have a choice. These paints are popular because of their ease of use, easy clean up, and minimal environmental impact.
They have drawbacks too (as with most things, there is a trade-off); primarily, acrylic paints don’t offer the same look and feel as oil paints – they typically don’t level as well, or feel as smooth when dried & fully cured, and they don’t dry as hard as oils. New, hybrid materials, are now available; oil-modified acrylics, they offer the leveling characteristics of oil, with the ease of use found in acrylics – however, they can be tricky to use. No matter what type of paint you choose, practice on a piece of scrap if you can, if not, begin painting in a closet or some other less visible area, work your way to the more prominent, visible areas.
Although acrylic paint dries faster than oil, oil paint actually cures (fully hardens) faster than water solubles. This is important if your trim project includes shelves, on which you want to place objects; it is very important to allow your paint finish to fully harden (cure) before placing objects on it.
Acrylics can take up to one month – and sometimes more, depending on where you live, and how thick your paint film is – oils typically cure in about 7-10 days. You can test the cure level by subjecting your new finish to the fingernail test: find an obscure place and gently press the nail of your thumb perpendicularly into the paint, if you see an impression, it may not be fully cured. You can place objects on your new paint anytime you wish, but be warned that they may leave impressions, or even adhere to the film if you’re premature.
Always choose high-quality paint brushes; and buy the brush that is most suitable to the size of molding. Choose a 2 ½ inch tapered sash brush for small trim, and a 3 ½ inch brush for wider trim, flat or block brushes for doors & paneling. If you plan to install new trim, you can prime and paint the trim boards before installing.
Just remember, you’ll need to caulk and putty your trim after you install it, then you can either touch up the putty and caulk, or apply a final coat. If you’re having difficulty, call your trim painting professional in the highlands area for advice.
People think of enamel as a type of paint – which it may once have been – but recently it is more of a descriptive term used in a general manner by many manufacturers to describe a paint that dries hard with a higher degree of gloss. This is the type of paint generally used in cabinet painting, and for the purposes of this post I will use the term is it is commonly understood – paying less attention to tradition and technical properties.
Enamel paint is installed on cabinets, doors, windows, trims, and cases. Enameling is ideal for high use areas like kitchen cabinets. One of the most important reasons why enamel is popular is because of its durability. Enamel has a smooth surface that does not collect dirt as easily so it is easy to clean, and also resists marring and scratching, and looks beautiful. If you use good quality enamel instead of wall paint on your kitchen cabinets, it will provide you with a durable and long lasting finish.
You can buy enamel of any color and any sheen. When you are thinking to apply enamel on your cabinets, you have a few choices, there are trade-offs with each option, there is no perfect enamel, you have to select from what is available based on what is important to you.
Water Based Enamel:
Latex and acrylic enamels are water based products and are popular due to their low VOC content (VOC: Volatile Organic Compounds). However, they are difficult to apply smooth, and have the lowest durability and finish quality. Water based enamel are generally when the homeowner wants to keep the project green- and is less concerned with finish or durability.
Oil Based Enamel:
Oil based enamels have higher VOC content than the water based enamels. However, this type of enamel is more durable and offers a better finished appearance. When applied on your cabinet surface, oil typically takes 12-24 hours to dry. Also you need to have a dust free environment when you are working with oil based enamel. Oil based enamel is idea in the situation when the homeowner may not be occupying the home. Oil based enamel also offer a durable and good looking finish that can be cleaned easily. Another consideration on the drawback side; oil products “yellow” with the passage of time.
Lacquer Based Enamels:
Lacquer based enamel is seldom used by homeowners because they are typically not sold in home improvement stores, are very smelly, thin and difficult to control, and have the highest VOC level of the 3. However, lacquer based enamel dries very quickly, allowing multiple coats to be applied in a relatively short period – an advantage over both water and oil based products. There are several types of cabinet lacquer, check with your professional paint store for availability.
These products are volatile, extreme caution must be used – I do not recommend this material for DIY projects. This is the same material used by cabinet shops so it is the best choice of finish beauty and durability. However, lacquer based enamels must be sprayed and should not be applied by hand. If you want the very best finish, contact a professional with experience using these products.
Cabinet painting project is always important. A fresh coat of paint can always make your worn, old kitchen cabinet look new again. While thorough preparation is the most important key to successfully painting kitchen cabinets, most people make a huge mistake by not taking it seriously.
Mentioned below are the 5 common mistakes people often make when painting old cabinets.
Not Allowing Enough Time for the Project:
Most people make a great mistake by taking cabinet painting as a weekend job. Literally, cabinet painting is a complex job that takes at least four to seven days. If you rush with the painting job, it is possible that you make too many mistakes.
Not Properly Cleaning the Wood:
No matter how clean your kitchen is, you need to wipe everything down from the cabinet wood. You can use a grease remover to properly clean the cabinet wood before applying paint on it. If you don’t clean the wood well, the paint won’t stick to the cabinet. You need to vacuum clean any debris from the surfaces. Remember, just a few trace of dust can ruin the look of newly painted cabinet. Unless you clean the surface well, you will receive a gritty finish.
Not Removing the Doors Off:
You should pull off all doors and drawers out and remove the hardware knobs and hinges. People often make a mistake by painting everything – hinges, knobs, and all. This saves time but your cabinets and knobs will start to chip and crack within a month. All you need to do is to sand everything down once the paint on the hardware knobs and hinges starts to crack.
Not Sanding the Cabinets:
Even if your cabinet woods are in perfect condition, you need to sand them well. This would help the paint to stick well. You can take sandpaper and just sand all the surfaces properly. However, you should not try to get down to the bare wood, just make the surface from glossy to matte.
Not Priming the Cabinets:
Most people love to quit this step but the available knots in the wood can start to bleed through the paint few weeks later if you don’t prime it well. It is important to use a stain blocking primer since it prevents all blotches as the paint cures.